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Musings and impressions of post-war Sri Lanka by a first time traveler

Skrivet av: Mette Gabler   Publicerat: 14 mars, 2011  |  Ingen kommentar
Etiketter: Colombo, Resa, Sri Lanka, Turism, Utveckling



As a traveler one often gets a very limited picture of the place visited. When visiting Sri Lanka for the first time I felt privileged to be invited into the home of my friend’s in laws. Not only would I be able to enjoy home cooked meals of coconut sambal and crab curries – yummy! – but also experience family life and local hospitality. In addition, conversing with the family members and other locals I now and then was given an insight into their perspectives of Sri Lanka in peace.

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Almost two years after the civil war, what first struck me was the seemingly chilled out nature and friendliness of people, that for some might be connected to a specific kind of life, island life. I would imagine that during a time of unrest one would feel mentally stressed and possibly frustration due to risk of bombings and such, and migration to countries without immediate threat has occurred due to this situation. But it almost seems like a forgotten era and it is now time to look forward. The state has re-build an impressive economic and strengthened the political system.

In addition, the nation is now openly inviting visitors to their motherland. Visas are now stamped into many citizens’ passports on arrival. No charge and no questions asked. If belonging to the list of this agreement one has the opportunity to travel the island for 30 days. This has lead to an explosion of tourist travelers of all sorts, and the nature and cultural heritage present surely provide diverse palette of opportunities. In a day the scenery can change from coconut trees on a golden sandy beach, to the greens of tee plains and waterfalls, to eerie cloudy hills, and ruins reminding one of the rich history of this central point of sea trade between east and west.

The year 2011 pulls on the island’s diversity and has made it the year of tourism by focussing on specific themes each month. January being the month of ”pristine beaches”, february the month of activities, and so on. Thereby, the government and in particular the Ministry of Economic Development and the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau have been connected and link the financial growth of the country with tourism as an important source of income with the natural, historical and cultural strengths in the greater scheme of developing the nation.

One is left to wonder whether there has been made considerations of negative side effect of tourism in regards to nature preservation, local businesses and overall structural changes due to the adjustments made to accommodate foreign tourists. Also, it is far from all countries that are welcomed to Sri Lanka without questioning, e.g. are many countries from the African and South American continent omitted from the so-called schedule ’A’, illustrating the differentiated system deeming which citizens are considered eligible for entry.

Arriving at the Colombo airport I found myself part of big groups of French and German speaking visitors probably eager to join the beach crowds after checking the cultural spots on the way. The biggest bulk seeming to be of an older generation. Alongside these I meet young english men that considered Sri Lanka an alternative to Thailand and the odd volunteer, who was traveling to rebuild destroyed areas on the east coast, that had been destroyed by heavy rains and flooding.

Even though the majority of traveling foreigners will not be confronted with the problems of regions away from the tourist hubs, visiting the previously violence ridden areas of the north and north east still requires special permission from state authorities. Similarly, photography in these areas is apparently restricted due to risks depicting post-war areas as representative of current state of the entire island. A measure seemingly instated in order to maintain the image of a country that has come out of a lengthy civil war and is now beyond reoccurring fighting between tamil independent movement and government.

Still, in Colombo city control points are visible in the street picture and apparently restrictions are placed on public gatherings. But at the same time the municipalities are sending a strong message to citizens and visitors alike that the times of unrest is over by tearing down the safety walls of official buildings. The optimism and faith in a strong and representative state is apparent and trust in the leading head of the government reflects a positive outlook.

Whether this is the case throughout the country and in all families is impossible to say, but as a first time traveler with limited insight I personally felt at ease by the relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Whether it be the Buddhist influence, the colonial and war ridden history that has now come to an end, the island life or the new found peace, trust or optimism, it seems that at least for some one can finally enjoy living in this impressive state and picturesque island. One now has the opportunity to be more laid back and an opportunity to breath.

Colombo Colombo sea view Sri Lanka temple Sri Lanka Buddha Sri Lanka fields Sri Lanka by train Sri Lanka Elephant orphanage Sri Lanka mountain view Street corner Buddha

Foto: Mette Gabler


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Om skribenten
Mette Gabler (1 artiklar)
Mette Gabler har en B.A i South Asian Studies från University of Copenhagen och en M.sc i International Development från Lunds Universitet. Just nu avlägger Mette sin doktorsexamen i ämnet ”Medialisering av det urbana Indien” vid Humboldt Universität zu Berlin. De senaste 12 åren har hon regelbundet spenderat tid i norra Indien, både för forskning och i nöjessyfte.



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